This July I headed to the Amalfi Coast before meeting some friends in Florence. It was my first time, and I had seen so many photos of the epic Positano, I couldn’t wait to get there.
I flew from Atlanta to Paris and then Paris to Naples. From there, I used a car service to take us from the airport to my first hotel in Praiano. This was the first trip I used Blacklane and I loved it. After researching car services, I found this company and it was seamless. The driver was waiting for me at baggage claim, and drove me straight to the hotel. The reservation was a pre-booking, so like Uber there is no worry about a change in fee or a money exchange.
One mistake I made when visiting the Amalfi Coast was not having euros. I thought I would be fine with just credit card, but within these smaller towns along the coast, taxis and some restaurants want cash.
My first stop was the Grand Hotel Tritone in Praiano. While the hotel decor was a outdated the hotel itself is beautiful and has CRAZY views. The sunset every evening was so stunning. There isn’t a gym in the hotel but they have some KILLER stairs that go all the way to the water. I ran those a few times a day and it was plenty. I really don’t think I have ever experienced a glute exercise any better than this one.
The hotel is close to One Fire Beach, a day club that I visited right around the corner. There are water taxis (Princess Positano) that will take you from the hotel to the club as well as over to Positano.
The drivers of Princess Positano were incredible. One day I was running late to the ferry over to Capri, and the driver called a friend and got him to hold the ferry for us. Amazing.
While at the Grand Hotel Tritone, I ate nearby at Kasai. This was probably the best meal I had in the area. The hotel had great views, but the food I would skip. Kasai was amazing from their complimentary welcome champagne to their beef. The views outside are also wonderful at sunset.
Over in Positano I made a few stops as well, like the cute Missoni store for my turban. The store is right across from the famous Le Sirenuse which is a must for a meal. Just be sure to make a reservation way in advance.
From Praiano, I took the ferry (the rapid ferry) over to Capri for a few days. I took the first ferry of the day to avoid any crowds. It was also a week day which means less of a crowd and made the ride more enjoyable.
In Capri, I stayed at Villa Brunella. Again – great views, way outdated decor. The pool is the perfect setting for a beautiful sunset over the island. Unlike Praiano, this hotel’s restaurant is very good. Be sure to eat at Terrazza Brunella, even if you don’t stay at the hotel.
Other notable dinners included the famous Restaurant de Paolino, set under canopies of lemon trees. The food and the setting was perfect, and it wasn’t too difficult to get a reservation. I had a great steak at the small Buca di Bacco. Get there right when it opens to grab the table by the window. Also visit Fontelina, but be sure to make a reservation.
One of my favorite days was spent on a walk/hike to Anacapri. When I told the locals that I walked, they thought I was crazy. It wasn’t too bad, there were a few spots where I had to really watch out for cars, but there were hidden staircases along the way that helped avoid traffic. The views at the top were beautiful.
Once I got to Anacapri, I realized that this part of the island is much more our style. It’s quieter, less tourists and the views are still incredible. If I ever went back, I would rather stay in this area. I recommend JK Palace.
Capri is covered in cobblestone streets, so each day I wore a dress and sandals to walk around. At night, people dress to the NINES to go to dinner, something I really don’t understand. Women are struggling to even walk on the streets in their heels and it’s so hot. I never knew who they were dressing up for or why. Any walk to dinner is a long one, so just skip the heels.
I think overall from this trip I learned that off season is the time to visit anywhere popular. The Amalfi Coast was super crowded and that’s just not my scene. I think if I would have visited Santorini in high season it would have been a completely different experience as well. I went mid-October and it was perfect. If you’re like me and hate the crowds, opt for mid to late October, or the beginning of April.
Questions about my time on the Amalfi? Shoot me an e-mail!